Sage is indigenous to the Mediterranean area, although it has been cultivated in Britain as far back as we are able to trace. It is most likely that it was introduced to our shores by the Romans who held sage, like many other herbs in high regard. The name comes from the Latin “salveo” meaning “I am well” indicating its high regard as a medicinal plant. Evelyn, a renowned 17th century writer stated in his writings “Tis a plant indeed with so many and wonderful properties that the assiduous use is said to render men immortal” .
Sage has had many common herbal uses over the years, one of the most common was as a method of cleaning teeth and freshening the breath. It has also been used in the form of “sage ale” as a health giving drink and as “sage tea” which was commonly used by the Chinese, who held it in such regard it was exchanged with Dutch exporters at a rate of 3lbs of finest china tea for 1lb of sage tea. Sage was often considered as a sight improving herb and was used as a basis for eye drops. In the county of Cheshire and surrounding counties it was regarded as a bringer of success.
Whatever medicinal uses Sage may have, it has always been a popular culinary herb with its distinctive aroma that seems to induce a feeling of hunger in most people. A slight whiff of sage in the kitchen and my mind is drawn straight to the traditional aromas of the Christmas dinner. Sage also has a use in the garden as a companion plant, if planted with brassicas it acts as a deterrent to many damaging insects, but should not be planted near rue or cucumbers as they do not get on well together.
There are said to be around 90 species of sage ranging from aromatic annuals to evergreen shrubs and they nearly all thrive well in dry, warm, sunny situations in open ground. modern uses are medicinally for curing problems with indigestion , wind, liver complaints and profuse sweating . Although it is worth noting that if taken too excess sage can be toxic. Culinary uses are well reported and its uses are endless.
Sow seed of sage outside in situ from Spring through to Autumn or directly into pots or tubs. ideally sage likes a warm sunny spot in full sun. Lightly cover the seed with soil (about 1/4cm at most) Do not over water the plants as they -prefer a reasonably dry growing environment. Thin out the plants to the strongest seedlings and aim for a final spacing of around 30cm(1ft) Once the plants are established pick the leaves as required.
Cuttings can be taken from well established plants. April and May is the ideal time to do this. It is best to take the cuttings with a heel and plant them in a frame, although they can be put straight into open ground. When the cuttings have rooted, they can be planted out in their permanent position, approximately 40cms apart and 60cms between the rows. While the plants are getting established, keep the soil hoed regularly and free of weeds.
Sage can also be propagated by layering the stems in the Spring. You can also divide sage by earthing up the plants in the Autumn or Spring, leaving just the tops uncovered. The plants will produce roots from the buried stems. You can then dig them up and and divide into bits that have roots attached and plant them into a permanent position.
Sage plants are usually past their best after four or five years, although if you keep the growing tips pinched out it will help stop them getting too leggy.
Sage is not fussy about soil types, but thrives on light well drained soil. It is worth a mention that sage is a hardy perennial plant that if not stripped of its leaves will last many years in the garden.
PURSLANE (Portulaca oleracea)
other names: pourpier,“buttocks of the wife of a chief “ fatweed and pussly,
This plant appears to have been in cultivation for many centuries all over the world. It is supposed to be a native of Persia and is said to have been used there over two thousand years ago. It has become a common weed in parts of the U.S.A. where it is sometimes called pussly.
Its name in Malawi is apparently translated as, “ buttocks of the wife of a chief.“ I can understand this to a degree, because it is a loose description of purslane, especially the golden form, which has succulent, rounded leaves on thick, fleshy stems.
Purslane was allegedly, first introduced into this country in approximately 1582.
Years ago when purslane was eaten, it was thought to help treat arthritis and heart disease. Also years ago it was said that, if you ate the raw leaves of purslane, it would cure toothache. It is eaten throughout the mediterranean region in salads and soups, where the incidence of heart disease is very low. In Mexico, it is known as Verdolaga and eaten in omelette, as a side dish and put into stews and soups.
Purslane is mucilaginuous, it helps aid digestion in the treatment of enteritis and dyspepsia. It is also said to contain essential fatty acids that help maintain a healthy circulatory system and is also used to treat high blood pressure.
There are two forms of purslane grown in Great Britain I know of, they are green purslane and golden purslane. They must both be treated as half hardy annuals, as they won’t stand any frost at all.
The green form seems to grow back more than the the golden one. The green one is a taller more erect plant, where as I think the golden one is much more attractive to look at. Both forms in my opinion need growing under protection, either in a cold greenhouse, polytunnel, or cold frame because of our climate, they will grow outside, but you need to have a good warm summer, to get a decent crop.
Golden and green purslane have fleshy succulent leaves, which I personally think taste of pea pods, I have read in some gardening books they taste like water cress, I certainly don’t agree. I would welcome anyones opinion on this.
If growing either purslane outside, they prefer a light,
well-drained soil, in a sheltered, sunny position. Sow outdoors from May - July, for a successional crop through the summer months or sow under protection in April in multi-cells and transplant outside, when risk of any frost is over.
I sow purslane in prepared beds in unheated polytunnels from early May - early August. I fork into the beds some compost first , then rake down to as fine a tilth as possible, because the seed of purslane is minute. Then I mark out very shallow drills with a dutch hoe. When sowing purslane it is a good idea to mix the seed with equal amount of dry sand, so you are able to sow seed more evenly.
They should be ready for their first cut about 3 - 4 weeks after sowing. I pick off the tops when they are about 10 centimetres high, leaving two leaves from the base, so they can re-shoot, you can continue picking them until they go to seed, usually you should get 2 - 3 cuts. I mainly grow the golden form, because I find it easier to grow, contrary to a lot of other gardeners opinon, also most of the restaurants I supply prefer it, because as well as having a good flavour, it also looks extremely attractive as part of a leaf salad.
If it is a cold, dull summer, purslane will not perform very well at all. In the summer of 1998, there were a couple of cold days during June of that year. I went to have a look at a crop of golden purslane, which we had growing in one of our polytunnels, thinking they should be ready for cutting, as they had been sown three weeks previously. To my disbelief they had dropped all their leaves, it looked to me as if autumn was upon us already, they did recover to a degree. In an average summer they are a very productive crop to grow under some protection and in my opinion well worth growing.
I believe golden purslane is a very good summer salad addition and this is borne out by the restaurants I supply.
FLEA BEETLE
Flea beetle is a generic name given to many types of small jumping beetles commonly seen in the garden, from spring to autumn.
Many species of flea beetle attack cultivated plants. Flea beetle, along with slugs, are the worst pest on the crops I grow, in my opinion.
Phyllotreta nemorum (the turnip flea beetle), Phyllotreta atra, Phyllotreta cruciferae and phyllotreta nigripes are mostly pests of crucifers and brassicas, although other garden plants can be attacked by similar species.
Of the plants I grow for salads, the mustards, pak choi, leaf radish, mibuna, roquette, mizuna and tatsai are worse affected. Some of the others are attacked to a lesser degree, greek cress, american cress, red russian kale and nasturtium.
The adult flea beetle overwinters beneath plant debris, underground, in clumps of grass, under hedges and similar places. In early spring, they come out and find young plants to feed on, apparently they can fly for a kilometre in search of food. During April/June the females lay eggs, depending on species, they lay eggs in the soil near plants, on leaves, or in holes made into the stems. Eggs hatch usually in about 10 days. The larvae and pupae develop during the summer. The new adults emerge in August to October, they feed for a few weeks and then find suitable places to overwinter.
Large amounts of flea beetle can devastate plants, particularly if they are in the seedling stage. The leaves are peppered with tiny little holes.
Some suggestions to try to protect and minimise damage to your plants:-
Before sowing make sure you prepare soil very thoroughly, to encourage rapid, healthy growth to help lessen effects of any flea beetle attack. Also keep plants well watered in any dry spells.
As soon as I have sown outside, I immediately cover the seed with horticultural fleece. Keep the area around the young plants weed free, as much as possible to stop larvae feeding. Try to rotate your crops.
Sometimes it will pay to delay sowing in the spring, when warmer temperatures will help plants to grow stronger and overcome damage by the flea beetle.
You can try putting pieces of greased wood close to plants, which theoretically if held above plants should trap the beetles on them, but obviously you will catch beneficial insects as well.
If you cannot cover outside brassica crops, it has been found almost any white powdery material applied, repels flea beetles. Depending on soil tests, you can try wood ash, phosphate, lime, etc. These will have to be re-applied, if it rains or you irrigate.
When growing crops through the winter, make sure you keep the area around the plants clean and tidy. Remove all old crop debris and any surface rubbish, to help prevent the flea beetle having under cover winter protection.
The trouble with spraying is, you not only kill the pest you are after, but other beneficial creatures. You can try making a solution of soft soap. There are various home made remedies that can be tried, for example, elder leaf spray, tomato leaf spray and horse radish spray.
Even when using these natural sprays, take care. Although they are natural, damage can occur. It is best to use any type of spray early in the morning, or in the evening. Always test first on a small area, wait at least 24 hours, before trying on larger area, because the plants can burn or have a reaction to what you are using in heat. This is called phytotoxicity. Concentrate only on the area that needs treating, be careful not to harm the beneficial creatures. Always protect your exposed skin and face, some ingredients can be very irritating to your skin and eyes.
I repeat, keeping the soil in good condition, is the best way to have healthy plants. When you have pest and disease problems, it is because they are attracted by unhealthy plant conditions.